Sunday, July 21, 2013

World Adventures!

This is my last week of teaching here in Taichung.  After Friday, I'm done.  It is bittersweet.  I very much love my students and I have fallen in love with Taiwan, but after program is done, I'm moving on.  

To what, you ask?  

Um... everything? 

Friday I kick out of here to Japan for the weekend.  

Sunday, I'm back on Taiwanese soil but Monday I'm turning around and leaving for Hong Kong where I will meet up with my Aunt.  She and I are going to tour through China, Korea, and then back to Taiwan over the next couple of weeks.  It is going to be a humdinger of a good time (sorry, I've been reading Roald Dahl's The BFG with some of my little ones, it sticks after a while.), but all of that travel and wrapping up of loose ends and the like takes a lot of time!  

While I hope that you all tune in for my whirlwind adventures in Asia, because sightseeing and travel makes for a lot better blog fodder than teaching the same group of students in the same classroom every day, I am here to tell you that you probably won't hear from me for the rest of the week.  There is laundry to be done, an apartment to clean, a classroom to clean, things to return, baggage to be packed and sent away, a backpack (meant to sustain me for three weeks) to be packed and only about 1 million other things to do. 

Not to mention, I have to plan my trips.  I haven't booked a flight to Japan yet, I have a very rough idea of where I'm going in China (naturally there are no flight or train tickets purchased yet,) and there is still all of Korea to think about.  Oh boy, I better stop thinking about this now and just start doing. 

I'll get back to you all in a few days.  I should be back in Wisconsin in late August, for all of you there who care.  While I'm on the road I will probably post daily or every other day, depending on the availability of internet.  


Thursday, July 18, 2013

Open Market

Last week before the typhoon I took a little trip to the market in the village.  It is a short distance away but can be a little intimidating.  Around 5:30-6:00pm it is PACKED.  The butchers and grocers bring out all of their products at about 4:30 and everyone flocks in.  

People come in from the surrounding "countryside" (I put quotes around that because you would never consider it countryside, but the Taiwanese do.), and this is where they do all of their shopping.  Because the crowd is made up of "rural" people, I am even more of a novelty when I go to the market than I am just around town.  At this market is probably where I have felt like an outsider the most.  Through all of the hustle and bustle I am always keenly aware of people stopping their shopping to stare at me.  I can hear their thoughts, "What's the white girl doing here?"  

The last time I went, I tried to covertly snag a few photos for you.  The quality is not great, but when you are the center of attention the last thing you want to do is overtly take a picture of a butcher.  It is a great way to piss a few people off.  This market is far different from what you would see in the states and sometimes I still cringe at the state of cleanliness.  

This stand was pretty cool.  You would tell the man which fish you wanted and then the woman would scale and filet it for you.  The mobile thing above his head whirls around and keeps the flies away.  No, the fish are not on ice.  Those suckers were probably swimming in the ocean 2 hours before I took this photo though. 

At this stand you can get your chicken, goose, or other fowl.  Freshly defeathered too.  Nothing like getting a fluff of down feathers in your mouth when you're shopping for meat.  

I failed to take a photo of the actual butcher's stand.  I would have loved to have purchased some meat but there was one problem.  I haven't learned enough Chinese to ask, "When you killed this animal a couple of hours ago, what sound did it make?  Moo moo, cluck cluck, oink oink?"  Yes I can tell chicken from beef when I see it raw but it is difficult to decipher the cuts of meat.  Pork belly is a really big deal here, they LOVE it, but it is unlike any pork belly I've seen before.  I think some of it had bones in it.  Also, what do I do with an entire pork belly?  I don't know how to say, "I'd like one eighth of that."  So I chickened out.  My adventurous side kept telling me to just give it a try but the market was bustling and I didn't need tiny Taiwanese grandmas shouting at me for taking too long.  

The market doesn't just sell fresh meat.  They also sell... well I am not really sure how it is prepared.  Hmm.  I'll show you. 
I apologize for the blur.
These are smoked (??) whole fish  You can buy them by the plate.  On the far right you can see some pork belly that has been also smoked, maybe.  




This woman serves a whole bunch of boiled, roasted, and otherwise prepared meats and produce?  She is serving up some pigs ears at the moment of this photo.  I know it is hard to see, but just the right of the pole there are a bunch of ears.  Down the row a little are hooves.  To which animal they belonged, I'm not sure. 

As children, my siblings and I would often nag our mother to tell us what was for dinner.  When we reached a critical point of annoyingness she would respond with "Pig's feet and goat ears."  This puts a whole new perspective on that saying....

In this bunch are also some cuttlefish (no, I have no idea what it is), bamboo, snails, tofu, and a bunch of other unidentifiable options.  I think they are all the exact same color because I think they are all cooked in some combination of soy sauce and super concentrated tea.  I could be wrong though.  

Here is more of the same.  It may seem that you have no idea what any of this is by looking at it.  I didn't have any idea what it was when I saw it in person.  I see some seaweed.  And tofu  And.... I'm not sure.  

There are also big stands of fruits and vegetables.  I have purchased from these before because usually you can just buy one melon, communicated by pointing and saying "ee ga," or when it comes to vegetables you usually bag up how much you want and take it to a lady to weigh.  When it comes to paying I often have them repeat the amount 15-18 times, or I just hold up money and look at clerk questioningly and they take what out what I owe them.  It has worked well so far.  

The only downside to the market is the stand right in the front that sells Stinky Tofu.  I'm not a big fan of tofu to begin with but when it smells like horse manure, my brother's tennis shoes after a full day of matches, and burning flesh all in one... well I try to avoid it.  There are varying levels of pungency to stinky tofu.  The origin of stinky tofu is widely disputed.  In modern times it is made by fermenting tofu in a brine made from fermented milk, vegetables, and meat.  Sometimes they put in dried shrimp, bamboo shoots, various greens, and Chinese herbs.  Industrially produced stinky tofu is only fermented for a few days, while homemade and "high quality" stinky tofu can be fermented for months.  It is often served deep fried.  Eek.  

Stinky tofu isn't the only highly pungent food here.  Have you heard of durian?  It is an innocent looking melon type fruit with a hard shell.  Inside it is orange and sticky and gooey... and smells like rotting human flesh.  I'll let you think about that for a while. 

1000 year old eggs are also a Chinese delicacy that is quite interesting.  They are called pidan here and it is essentially an egg (duck, chicken or quail) that has been preserved in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime, and rice hulls.  They hang out in this mixture for up to a year  The yolk turns dark green or gray and smells like sulphur and the white turns into a dark brown, kind of tasteless jelly. 

1000 year old egg. 
And I think I will leave you with that.  :)


Monday, July 15, 2013

Post Soulik

Hey all,

I'm sorry my post as been delayed.  I wanted to let you all know I was A-Okay right away but the internet was sketchy for quite a while after Soulik.  Since then I have just been really busy with work!

I am A-Okay!!

The storm was pretty low key.  It got pretty bad at around 3 am on Saturday.  We destroyed a few umbrellas.  :)  

In the meantime my dear neighbors are fostering an adorable 2 1/2 week old little girl.  I get baby time whenever I want.  



My amazon hand is in there just for size comparison.  She is TINY.  Like just over 5 lbs tiny.  She does the amazing thing where she grabs onto one of my fingers and never lets go.  

Who wants to do work when you can cuddle with a baby?  Not me! 


Friday, July 12, 2013

Typhoon Soulik - Update 4

Hey Everybody, 

Just in case you've been watching closely I wanted to let you all know that I am doing just fine over here.  The winds and rain started to be something noticeable about 1 1/2 hours ago.  So far it hasn't been much worse than a moderately bad summer thunderstorm in Wisconsin.  The power went out for about 15 minutes around 12:00 am.  It came back on quickly no problem.  The internet has been a little groggy and so it has taken me a while to get a post up.  I apologize.  

If you've been watching the radar at all it is clear how much the mountains affect the storm.  Pretty much everything breaks up and dissipates before it even reaches us.  Truly, Taichung is the safest place to be on this island in a typhoon.  

The core of the storm is supposed to hit in the next 5-8 hours so I will know more by then.  

In my down time tonight I baked a flourless chocolate cake with vanilla bean creme anglaise sauce.  Then I ate it.  It was delicious. 


Believe it or not that is actually a piece of cake.  It is just so coated in anglaise that it is hard to tell.  Be jealous.  Very jealous. 
I've set alarms so I don't sleep there the core of the storm.  I hope to have an update up around 8 am my time (7pm CST), internet permitting.  

Good night! 

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Typhoon Soulik - Update 3

Nothing yet.  

Soulik is on a confident path for Northern Taiwan.  He will come ashore sometime tomorrow evening as a Cat. III Super Typhoon.  Taichung will get hit with the closest thing to a direct hit without actually experiencing the eye.  Soulik is HUGE at 950km across with a 40 km eye (currently loosely formed and in a rebuilding phase).  As expected the storm has weakened over the last 12 hours but is expected to grow in strength again before landfall in Taiwan.  As it strengthens, it is slowing down considerably - hence the change from Friday morning landfall to Friday evening.   I'll save all the scientific mumbo jumbo for right now.  




On the brighter side I've been preparing.  And having fun doing it! 

Allow me to introduce you to Bess' Culinary Typhoon Preparation Kit.  From now on referred to as BCTPK which might be one of the worst acronyms ever to be penned (or in this case keyed.)



For ease I've included only the absolute necessities.  Please feel free to improvise and add whatever other culinary investments you'd like to make. 

#1: BAKED GOODS.  If you haven't already, check out this post about my favorite new bakery in Taichung.  I have a few oldies and a few newbies.  The French bread and garlic bread are now staples so of course I needed both for this weekend.  The weird crescent shaped thing just above the number 1 is Ruth's favorite - slightly smooshed.  It is a rolled bread with ham and turkey and bacon and cheese.  She is a big, big fan.  The chocolate ball there in the bottom right corner is new.  I haven't broken into it yet but I am thinking it is a chocolate bun with a filling covered in cocoa powder and slivered almonds.  I'll get back to you on that one. 
Usage:  Social emergency situations.  These often arise when too many people are stuck in the same small space while typhoon winds rage outside.  Deployment: 1) Identify the crabby, cooped up culprit 2) Kindly suggest they eat a sweet, delicious treat.  3) If step 2 fails, force feed the culprit some tasty treats until their mood improves. 

#2: SNACKS/JUNK FOOD.  You might recognize the Synders pretzel bites.  They are a nice reminder of home and have a delicious cheesy flavor to them.  The HaiTai crackeres are like the most buttery, salty delicious Club Crackers ever.  They make a ginormous mess but are totally worth it.  Pringles and peanuts are pretty much self-explanatory. 
Usage: For use in continual mushy food situations.  Identifiable when suspect's mouth tends to go slack from not having to chew and simply just mushing overcooked ramen between one's teeth for the last three days.  Deployment: 1) Produce crunchy, salt snacks.  2) No one has ever needed a step 2 before.  If you get this far you are doing something wrong. 

#3: WATER.  Um, duh?  Not pictured here:  Lemon Black Tea.  I forgot to add it to the photo but it is just as much of a staple as water is.  My students have figured this out.  Earlier this week I forgot my tea one day and they were very quick to suggest I try to order some for delivery.  It worked out well in the end.

#4:  DRANK.  Um, duh?  Naw, just kidding.  The presence of kid juice and adult juice is crucial to typhoon survival.  How else can you be expected to get through such a long time in the house with the same people?!  This particular kid juice is cranberry juice, though it is far too sweet for my taste.  The bottle is an Italian Moscato.  I've been saving it for something and a typhoon seemed like a good something. 
Usage: Extreme annoyance.  Deployment: 1) Identify the early stages of annoyance among inhabitants.  The indicating signs are: eye rolling, sighing, social and physical distancing, and verbal attacks.  2) If the annoyed inhabitant is not yourself, produce kid juice.  Force feed if necessary.  3)  If the annoyed inhabitant is yourself, pop Moscato.  Drink 1-2 glasses every 2 hours.  Repeat as necessary. 

#5: CANDY.  Here we have a few of my favorites.  Chocolate covered almonds.  Snickers bars.  Maple Pies.  I'm not sure why they are called pies but they are little puff pastries with a maple syrup flavor and caramelized sugar on top.  Delicious. 
Usage: See component #1.  Deployment:  See component #1

There you go.  Now you know how to be prepared for a Super Typhoon Bess style! 

I'll post in the morning as things start to change. 



Bakery

Onslaught of blogging.  RAWR!

Funny how a little change of location can really get you in the mood to blog. 

I found a bakery.  Mmmhmm. 

It's called Champs Elysees.  Creative, eh?  :-p 

Everyday at 5:30 pm they put out fresh everything.  And everything is good.  And everything is cheap.  I've never spent more than USD$6 at a time and I've got a ton of stuff! 

Examples. 

Day 1: 

The French Bread.  Oh my goodness the French Bread.  Listen to me.  This is the best french bread I've ever had and I've. Been. To. FRANCE!!! Warm from the oven.  A crisp crust with the softest center imaginable.  The slightest hint of tang.  The whole baguette is quite large, this is just 2 pieces of 7.  My mouth is watering.... 

Garlic.  I believe this is the same French recipe but as it is hot out of the oven they cut it open and put an amazing collection of butter and spices all over it.  These loaves are much smaller.  Small enough to only feel mildly bad when you eat an entire loaf... in one sitting... before it completely cools.... Judge me all you want.  I'm happy.

Cheese.  This was a mild disappointment but it was still amazing.  I'm not a huge fan of the cheese they use most here.  It is a very creamy cheese and I prefer my cheeses to have a kick!

Chocolate.  This is a chocolate bun.  Have you ever had the fresh buns from Sam's Club?  In my family we use them for ham and cheese sandwiches, and shredded beef, and a bazillion other things.  This is a sweet chocolate version of that.  FILLED WITH CHOCOLATE MOUSSE!!!!!  My mind was blown.  As was my diet. 

If that wasn't enough.  The next day I went back. 

Day 2:

Almond.  I'm a huge fan of Bear Claws.  I love me some almond.  This was really intriguing.  The ends were quite crisp and airy.  The center was softer and a little more dense.  Over all the flavor won me over!

Sugar.  For some reason when you haven't had the opportunity to have a plain old sugar donut for months... sugar donuts are AMAZING!  This one has a slight caramely flavor and the sugar is coarser than we are used to.  Winner!

Cheese.  I actually wasn't a huge fan of this one either.  Again the cheese is far to creamy and this was mixed with some kind of mayonnaise and then broiled.  Not for me.  I bequeathed it to Ruth and two minutes it was gone so I'm going to guess she thought it was good. 

Chocolate and Peanut.  A sweet white bread filled with pure dark chocolate and covered with peanuts.  Do I need to say more?

The chocolate bun made a second appearance because I had to get it again for a second time.  Did I mention that they come in bags of three?

Hungry yet?


Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Typhoon Soulik - Update 2

While I slept Soulk wept.  

Teehee.  

Soulik encountered some cold water and has de-intensified a little.  He is still packing some pretty strong winds but they have him making landfall as a Cat II now. I still think there is a period for some re-intensification before landfall but we will see.  

Current conditions:  It feels a touch cooler out today and it is a bit more windy than usual but perhaps I just notice it more because I'm expecting it to be there.  


That's all for now.